Saturday, September 14, 2013

Today we had a long drive through Umbria, past Rome and southwest to Sorrento on the Amalfi coast.  It was my turn to drive.  We've split the driving very nicely -- especially for me!  Sandy has (by pure chance) driven every time it has rained!  But I drove today and what a drive it was!  The navigation quit working so we just had to follow signs.  That in itself is a challenge here!  Sometimes there is a sign and sometimes not.  You have to know the next town you are aiming for, not necessarily your destination. Roads are very narrow, there's A LOT of traffic through small towns once you get off the freeway A-1, and the drivers are crazy, doing everything you are taught not to do in the U.S.  They ride right on your tail so no one can squeeze in, they pass on curves, they pass you on the right if they can and feel they need to, they never signal, and there are thousands (it seems) of motorcycles who weave in and out, every side and between the two lanes of traffic.  If you are the least bit timid driving, DON'T drive in Italy.  On the freeway, they will pass you on the left (you HAVE to stay right except to pass), then come back in immediately in front of you, a half a car length.  Or you may have the one who straddles the two lanes for a mile or so.  The freeways are bumpy but good.  Many tolls.  It's very expensive to take these roads.  There are frequent rest areas for gas and food (the food by the way is great, even in these places).  But in the toilette, expect to squat to pee (also in many other public places, like restaurants and museums).  No toilet seats for the women!  Unlike China though, there is toilet paper.

We arrived in Sorrento but had a hard time finding the hotel.   We had to turn around, a feat in itself on that road with no places to turn around (turn in a short drive and BACK OUT into the road -- ACK!  We finally arrived about 4:00, tired and hungry.  We asked if there was a place close by to eat.  The woman at the hotel said "a 10-minte walk downtown".  Now, downtown there means DOWNtown.  Then UPtown.  No energy.  But, she said, we have a place here you can get a sandwich.  Just go over there (she pointed) and take the elevator down to -2 (we've run into a lot of elevators with -1,-2,-3 levels under the main level) and follow the path.  We did.  Down the elevator, down the path, down the stairs, down the path, down the stairs, down more stairs, and DOWN the path to the small pebble beach.  After good tomato and mozzarella sandwiches, it was back UP all of that.  Needless to say we got back and took a nap!

Later we decided to look in Rick Steve's for a dinner-by-the-sea recommendation.  After another directional challenge and another parking challenge we walked to a picturesque little area of restaurants.  Before we could figure out what direction to go in, this woman, in front of her little restaurant, starting talking to us in English -- "ah, Rick Steven, fuck Rick Steven (she said that, not me)!  Throw book in sea.  He getta money from all these restaurants -- they pay him to be in book, then people like us don't getta business.  We have best food.  You know Sophia Loren (not personally)?  She eat at this restaurant -- look at picture.  I make good dinner for you."  We got a table by the sea and tried out her food which turned out to be just fine, except for the Classico wine (white) which was VERY bland. I was served a whole fish.  It was delicious, but I haven't filleted a fish in a long time.  I have to say I did it quite well and enjoyed the meal and the scenery.  Afterwards we strolled down to the restaurant Rick Steve's recommended which turned out to be much too expensive for us, so we were glad we made that decision.  There were cats all over the area.  They would sit right next to your table waiting for a dropped scrap. And I guess Sophia ate at most of the restaurants there!  We found out she did film 3 movies there, most notably "Scandal in Sorrento".

So far, so good.  No accidents, no squashed cars or people.  Weather has been great all the way, except when Sandy drove.